Waterproof Jewellery in South Africa: What It Really Is, From a Jeweller of 25 Years

Waterproof Jewellery in South Africa: What It Really Is, From a Jeweller of 25 Years

"Waterproof jewellery" is a marketing term, not a type of metal. It's usually stainless steel or base metal with a thin layer of gold or silver plated on top — in other words, costume jewellery. And here's the thing: all metal is waterproof. Silver is waterproof. Gold is waterproof. What wears off in water is the plating.

I've been a jeweller for 25 years, making everything in my Durban studio. Customers ask me "is this waterproof?" all the time. Here's my honest answer — and what to look for instead.

What is waterproof jewellery?

It is jewellery that typically looks like silver or gold but at a more affordable price and is promised to be “waterproof” and “tarnish resistant” meaning that the plating won’t wear off. But what it really is is base metal or stainless steel, made in big factories, then plated in gold or silver. Another word used for this type of jewellery is "anti-tarnish".

Note the word resistant. It isn't tarnish-proof. Nothing plated is.

Does waterproof jewellery last?

It depends on how it's made, and how well. But every plating has a lifespan. The more you swim, bath and shower in it, the faster it wears away.

Once the plating wears through, you're left with the base metal underneath. This can often react with your skin and turn it green (it will wash off). And base metal can't be re-plated, so the piece has come to the end of its lifespan.

Why waterproof jewellery is fast fashion

When the gold or silver plating finally wears off, you don't want to wear it anymore. It was cheap, so you buy another one. That's the throwaway mentality which is the same as fast fashion - buying cheap, throwing it away when it breaks which adds to landfill.

I'd rather you buy less, and buy well.

Do you know what's in it?

A lot of costume jewellery is imported, and you have no way of knowing what the base metal is. Studies of cheap imported jewellery have found cadmium, a toxic metal, in some pieces — at levels hundreds of times over the EU limit (Weidenhamer et al., 2011; Pouzar et al., 2017). With unbranded base metal, you simply don't know what you're wearing.

Is sterling silver waterproof?

Yes. Like all metal, water won't harm sterling silver. What it does do is tarnish.

Tarnishing is due to the copper in the silver reacting with the air. Sweat, chlorine, sea water, sea air, and the chemicals in soap, shampoo and sun cream all speed it up. But it's only surface oxidation and can be cleaned off or polished which will bring your silver goes back to its original colour.

Can you shower, swim or sleep in sterling silver?

My advice is not to sleep, bath or swim in your jewellery. Not because it will be ruined, but because it will last longer if you don't.

Chlorine can actually eat at the metal, so pools are the one I'd really avoid. That said, if you forget and go for a swim in the sea or the pool, it's not the end of the world. It's just advised not to.

Living by the sea

Living at the coast definitely affects your metal. I see it in Durban all the time. It is the salty sea air that causes the silver to tarnish but as said this is just a surface reaction and can be polished.

When you're not wearing your silver, keep it in a small clear plastic packet inside a jewellery box. Less air means less tarnish. And in summer, when you're swimming, sweating and wearing sun cream every day, it might be time to take your jewellery off for a while. It's solid metal, so it can always be polished up again.

What about gold-plated sterling silver?

Plating on sterling silver is a surface finish, and it's fussy. No sleeping, swimming or bathing in it, or it wears off quicker.

I'm very specific about what I plate. Earrings and some necklaces are fine. I would never plate a ring, it would wear off in a matter of days. Bracelets get a lot of wear on them too, so the plating wears fast.

The upside of plated silver is that there's real metal underneath, so I can re-plate it. Plating is priced on request, as it depends on the size of the piece. But plating isn't cheap, and you'll keep needing to replenish it. If you really want the gold look, my honest advice is to save up and buy the solid gold piece.

How to clean tarnished silver

              

1.      Polish and a polishing cloth. This is one of the best ways to clean silver.

2.      Skip chemical dips. They strip the natural patina from the darker, recessed areas of a piece. In my experience, jewellery tarnishes faster afterwards, even when you rinse it well.

3.      DIY Jewellery cleaner
Only a few things from your kitchen cupboard.
 In a small plastic container put tin foil shiny side up add just boiled water, one third to half a cup bicarbonate, tsp salt and pop the jewellery in. Leave for 5 to 10 mins. Rinse and pat dry with a soft cloth and finish drying with a hairdryer. Voila 

4.      Badly tarnished? Bring it to me. I'll polish it and give it back with a little spring in it.

How to tell what you're really buying

Look for a stamp. Real precious metal is hallmarked.

Stamp	What it means
925	Sterling silver
375	9 carat gold
585	14 carat gold
750	18 carat gold
916	22 carat gold
999	24 carat gold

If it says "waterproof" or "anti-tarnish", read the small print for "plated" or "nano-plated". And if there's no stamp at all, it's 99% not real.

Why I work in precious metal

I trained in jewellery design and manufacture and we were trained to work in precious metals - silver and gold. Base metal is a completely different way of working, mostly done in big factories with a completely different set of machinery.

I make my jewellery in my studio. I know how it's made, and I know what it's made from. That matters to me.

Looked after properly, a piece made well should last a lifetime. It might need a repair along the way. And precious metal keeps its value. If you fall out of love with a piece, it can be melted down and made into something new. Costume jewellery can't be fixed or melted down to make something new, and it has a much shorter life.

Buy consciously

If waterproof jewellery is what you want, that's your choice. Just know what you're buying: plated costume jewellery, not precious metal.

Precious metals cost more, but as I say buy less, buy well, and you'll have something worth keeping.

Start with an everyday piece: Organic silver huggie earrings